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cleat installation and adjustment
 The
cleats are compatible with all standard SPD® compatible shoes
and do not have a front and back but there is a left and a
right cleat that changes the release angle. Cleats for road
shoes are also available.
Cleat with the two circles on your right shoe means earlier
(15º) release angle on both feet.
Cleat with the two circles on your left shoe means later (20º)
release angle on both feet.
Cleat release explanation: When the cleat with the two circles
is on your right shoe, both feet release at about 15 degrees
when your heels are twisted outward, and about 20 degrees
when your heels are twisted inward. When the cleat with circles
is on your left shoe, both feet release at about 20 degrees
when your heels are twisted outward, and about 15 degrees
when your heels are twisted inward. The cleats are symmetric
to each other. Therefore, both your feet will release the
same (early or late) as each other. Use the steel washers
with the cleats.
We recommend beginners always start with the cleat with the
two circles on the right shoe. Many experienced riders prefer
this position as well.
Step One: Position the cleat on the shoe including
washers and install 4mm Hex screws through the cleat and washers
and into the metal plate in your shoe. Tighten the screws
securely (40-50 in-lb (4-5 Nm)). Note: the cleats can rotate
a few degrees each direction and slide side to side in order
to allow you to customize the right position for you. You
will probably need to reposition the cleats a few times in
order to place them in the best position.
Step Two: Place one foot on smooth level ground and
engage your other shoe into the pedal. Rotate your foot back
and forth a few times to feel the free float. For most people,
the best position for the cleat allows you to pedal comfortably
without having to twist against the spring tension. In other
words, when the cleat is properly positioned, you will feel
a few degrees of rotational motion without feeling spring
tension. Twist your heel outward to disengage from the pedal.
Step Three: If the cleat is not in the correct position,
loosen both screws and twist the cleat slightly. Re-tighten
the screws securely and repeat Step Two.
spring tension
With conventional pedals, if the spring tension is set low,
then it is easy to unclip but also easy to accidentally pull
out of the pedal. If the spring tension is set high, then
it is very hard to clip in or out.
Our unique patented design eliminates the need for spring
tension adjustment. Retention is not dependent on spring tension.
Clipping in and out will become easier after the cleats break
in.
mud
Smarty and Egg Beater MXR pedals are generally unaffected
by mud and other natural debris. In extreme cases, you may
need to twist back and forth in order to engage (this will
push particularly thick mud through the pedal). Do not use
pressurized water on the Smarty or Egg Beater MXR.
engaging the pedals
The Smarty and Egg Beater MXR give you several entry options.
With any of these options, you will need to put enough force
to spread open the pedal. There will be an audible "click"
sound when the pedal is engaged. To verify you are engaged,
pull slightly upwards. The pictures show a partial Smarty,
but also apply to Egg Beater MXR pedals.
engage
 option
1: Step down and forwards into the pedal.engage
option 2: Step down with the cleat behind the pedal.
Then push forwards and the pedal bars will flip over and engage.
engage
option 3: Step down with the cleat in front of the
pedal. Then pull backwards and the pedal bars will flip over
and engage. Usually it is easiest to make the pedal bars flip
over to engage during the downward stroke while pedaling.
These techniques take some practice. Place one foot on smooth
level ground and practice engaging and disengaging from each
pedal a number of times. Even if you are experienced with
clipless pedals, all clipless pedals take some practice to
get used to. Get used to them before going off-road or anywhere
dangerous.
disengaging from the pedals
Release from the pedal is achieved by an outward twist of
the heel. It is also possible to release by twisting inwards
but generally this only takes place accidentally. When you
want to disengage, most riders find it easiest and safest
to do so by twisting their heals outward. If you prefer twisting
inwards, we recommend you place the cleat with two circles
on your left shoe to make inward release earlier.
tread interference (difficult clip
in and out)
 Some
shoes have a tread that is higher than average, which can
cause interference with the pedal, making it difficult to
clip in and out of the Smarty and Egg Beater MXR pedals. If
you have tread interference, the shims should help. Ideally,
the tread of your shoe contacts the pedal, but not too much.
With ideal contact, you will achieve maximum stability with
easy clip in and out. Try to clip your shoes in the pedals
when you're not wearing them and look closely to see if it
appears there is excessive contact between the tread and the
pedal. If the pedal compresses the tread, then you have interference
that will make clipping in and out more difficult. If this
is the case, then you'll need to either use the Shims provided,
or trim your tread.If you decide to trim the tread, we suggest
you use a hand-held sanding wheel (like a "Dremel") or a sharp
knife, but please be careful (including safety glasses) and
remove only a small amount of tread at a time in order to
check for interference. In the rare event that you need two
Shims per shoe, contact Crank Brothers and we will provide
them for free. If you have interference, remove the cleat
and place the Shim (with the textured points) toward the shoe
and under the cleat. Do not use the Shim unless you have tread
interference or your shoe will be less stable on the pedal.
Many shoes will not cause tread interference with the pedals.
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